Nightmares and dreams in Agra


Heat, sweat, tiredness, sleep, dream, pain, searing pain! dream?  Eyes open, darkness and  knife like pain, reality I have been bitten by something, spider, snake?
Mary, Mary ehhh.. Mary nuuuuhhh, lights, turn the lights on I have been bitten and it hurts!
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Varanasi -Holy city and one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world.


Rowing into the sunrise

Left Kanha on the 1.30pm bus, a 5hr ride through farming communities and rocky hillsides.  It all looks very dry and the underbrush is always being burnt off in small patches to prevent major fires. The Lady behind us had a very nasty looking arm and it was bandaged but oozing yellow puss, her pain was clear and she gratefully accepted some Ibuprofen for the pain.  Most people in India cannot afford medicines. As usual we traveled without a plan and never book ahead and ended up staying one night in Jabilipur as we could not get a train to Varanasi  the same day. Continue reading

Tiger Tiger Tiger!


Home base-KumKum Lodge        Suki 4×4-India made!
We arrived in Umaria the nearest train station at on to Bandanvargh National park at  1am in the morning as the train was late, quickly negotiated the taxi down from 750R to 300R,  we almost went with a tuk-tuk at 400R but as it turned out the taxi was a blessing. It was 32km’s and the road was very rough and would have taken 3 times as long in a tuk-tuk as they do not do well on bumpy roads, not long after leaving Umaria you enter the Park and we had to wake up the sleeping night guard to open the gate. Tigers roam this road and you are not supposed to get out of the vehicle at anytime.
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Afraid to fart – no photos by request.

Yep its true I’m sick with some sort of bug, God knows what!   Don’t get me wrong, I am loving India and especially the people who have redefined  the word friendly, however it must be told that almost every city, town, village so far has open sewers on every street.  Streams and rivers look more like the local garbage dump, its a good thing the blog does not support smells of India. The trains also join in spreading everything along the tracks and I it appears to me  the toilets get busier in the stations and thus the stations kinda stink especially in the heat of India. We read a great article on the subject in the Hindu Times, calling on Indians to demand change. Tourists to India that fail to mention  the pollution and health hazards both in the cities and the country side are clearly seeing the world with rose tinted glasses. I was sure careful but was outwitted by a simple bug. Continue reading

India- Mamallapuram

Mamallapuram  faces south east across the Bay of Bengal and every morning the sun rises through a hazy sky and the light is a soft magical yellow colour, fisherman in small multi-log or painted high prow canoes paddle out through golden waves, not really surfable but the one surfer in town did offer to rent me his board, to bad the waves were never good enough. Continue reading

India Madurai to Trichy

Trains are cheap about R 800 ($20.00) 2nd class to travel for around 12hrs, it varies if you go 3rd class it costs half that or less. Buses for the same distance are R 150 or less ie way cheaper and a very different experience, full of small towns and tea stops. So we took the bus again from Madurai to Trichy R70, about a 6hr ride.
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Downhill for a bit…

    Oh my god the journey from Munnar down to the lowlands was like a scene from a Tintin book, narrow winding single lane cliff edge road with vertical  drop offs into the valley below, at one point we came round a hairpin bend to find a tractor sideways across the road. (on Video), looking ahead I could see where our road was going along a shear cliff and would have happily walked down if the bus had slowed down enough for me to get off. Continue reading