Nightmares and dreams in Agra

Heat, sweat, tiredness, sleep, dream, pain, searing pain! dream?  Eyes open, darkness and  knife like pain, reality I have been bitten by something, spider, snake?
Mary, Mary ehhh.. Mary nuuuuhhh, lights, turn the lights on I have been bitten and it hurts!
Continue reading


Varanasi -Holy city and one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world.

Rowing into the sunrise

Left Kanha on the 1.30pm bus, a 5hr ride through farming communities and rocky hillsides.  It all looks very dry and the underbrush is always being burnt off in small patches to prevent major fires. The Lady behind us had a very nasty looking arm and it was bandaged but oozing yellow puss, her pain was clear and she gratefully accepted some Ibuprofen for the pain.  Most people in India cannot afford medicines. As usual we traveled without a plan and never book ahead and ended up staying one night in Jabilipur as we could not get a train to Varanasi  the same day. Continue reading

Tiger Tiger Tiger!

Home base-KumKum Lodge        Suki 4×4-India made!
We arrived in Umaria the nearest train station at on to Bandanvargh National park at  1am in the morning as the train was late, quickly negotiated the taxi down from 750R to 300R,  we almost went with a tuk-tuk at 400R but as it turned out the taxi was a blessing. It was 32km’s and the road was very rough and would have taken 3 times as long in a tuk-tuk as they do not do well on bumpy roads, not long after leaving Umaria you enter the Park and we had to wake up the sleeping night guard to open the gate. Tigers roam this road and you are not supposed to get out of the vehicle at anytime.
Continue reading